After riding in northern Pocahontas County, West Virginia, last year, I was excited to return to explore the southern part of the county on my 2022 Harley-Davidson Ultra Limited. The bike was loaded with everything needed for a couple days on the road, and the forecast looked great.
My journey began at an iconic location – the eastern entrance to the Highland Scenic Highway (State Route 150) where it intersects with U.S. Route 219 near Edray in the Monongahela National Forest. That’s where I met my riding partner and guide, Jeff Swanner, who joined me on a borrowed 1990 BMW K75. We met last year during my first visit to the county, and he offered to show me more of the roads and activities that the county has to offer.
Highland Scenic Highway may be the most beautiful two-lane road in West Virginia. I already knew about this 22.5-mile byway because it’s featured in Harley-Davidson’s 50 Rides, One Nation program, which highlights an exceptional route and a specific landmark in each of the 50 states. The program is available to Harley Owners Group (HOG) members, who can document their visit at the landmark via selfie and submit it online to earn a challenge coin specific to that route. I’m up to 34 coins, and I hope to complete the program in 2026.
The highway has wonderful undulations, long sweepers, a conservative 45-mph speed limit, and fantastic views visible from the saddle and at several overlooks. On a midweek morning, we didn’t worry much about traffic enforcement – or traffic for that matter – and we took full advantage of the smooth pavement and open vistas to goose our throttles a little. Sometimes a lot. Both bikes responded well to the mild twists and turns that we came upon.
Jeff led us to Williams River Road (Forest Road 86), a scenic route with rustic campsites along the way. Though paved, it presents challenges as it tightly hugs the meandering riverbank and isn’t maintained quite as well as the other county roads. As soon as we rolled into the shadows created by the overhead canopy of treetops, I found myself navigating the Harley around hard-to-see potholes and gravel patches – and not always succeeding. One serious jolt caused me to cut my speed dramatically. Though picturesque, this road requires extra care and caution.
We reversed course after a while. I was a little envious watching Jeff make a smooth U-turn on the BMW while I was forced to do a three-point turn on the narrow road due to the Harley’s long wheelbase and extra weight.
Being back on SR-150 was just as enjoyable as it had been before the river detour, even more so after Jeff suggested I take the lead to cover the last few miles. The Limited ate up the asphalt and gave me several thrills as I leaned into a few of the steeper curves. I pushed the speed limit quite a bit, making the experience one most riders enjoy – deeper leans, quicker shifts, and a stronger breeze. Jeff made sure to stay in my mirrors but also gave me plenty of space to explore the changing elevation on the route. It climbs from a low of 2,300 feet to a high of more than 4,500 feet, though there aren’t any steep climbs or drops.
We rode past the summit of Cranberry Mountain as we approached the end of SR-150 at a T-intersection with State Routes 39/55. There are a couple nearby attractions that share the mountain’s name, including the U.S. Forest Service’s nature center that offers refreshments, exhibits, and clean restrooms. Continuing just a couple miles farther north on SR 39/55, the Cranberry Glades Botanical Area has an extensive bog (an acidic wetland) accessible via a boardwalk.
Upon leaving the bog, we experienced some of the best riding in the southern part of Pocahontas County. We headed south on SR-39/55, and we had the road to ourselves as we encountered numerous sharp curves and even a few serious switchbacks. The BMW’s cornering ability allowed it to pull away through some of the more extreme twisties, but the Limited easily caught up on the straights. This was my first run on the route and, as we revisited it many times over the two days, the gap shrunk, but I was never able to match Jeff’s pace.
None of the roads in this part of the county are terribly long, but they get your juices flowing and provide some nice riding challenges – especially once we realized drivers were willing to cede the road to us and noticed the abundance of places to pass. And pass we did!
Continuing on SR 39/55, we merged onto Seneca Trail (U.S. Route 219) and encountered more switchbacks as we neared Marlinton’s town limits. It was one curve after another, and I got into a rhythm that had me regularly shifting my lean from side to side and gearing up or down as I tried to keep pace with Jeff.
We had lunch in Marlinton at the Greenbrier Grille & Lodge, a family-style restaurant with tables on a large deck overlooking the Greenbrier River. Rested and recharged, we returned to Seneca Trail to visit Watoga State Park. On the way, we noticed the sign for Barnett Cabins, our lodging for the night. We doubled back to see if we could check in early and drop our luggage. Tim, the property manager, was more than happy to accommodate us.
We encountered the typical arrangement in the county to get to the cabins: an unpaved access road with a well-maintained gravel surface. This one crossed Stamping (pronounced “stomping”) Creek via a wooden bridge. Our cabin (#2) was rustic but had everything we needed: two bedrooms, a well-furnished kitchen/dining/living room, and a full bath.
After the quick stop, we continued our ride on Seneca Trail to the park, about 20 minutes away via Seebert Road. This is one of five state parks in the county, and we rode through three of them during this trip: Watoga, Beartown, and Droop Mountain Battlefield. All have something unique to offer, but Watoga is the largest and has the most extensive array of amenities, including cabins, campsites, boating, fishing, swimming, and – new on the scene – pickleball! Though not highlighted in the park’s literature, it offers excellent riding with roads that are in perfect condition. They’re narrow with occasional blind curves, so extra care must be taken to avoid tourists and wildlife.
We stopped at Levels Depot after leaving Watoga to grab something to take back to the cabin for dinner. This gas station/convenience store has an attached cafe that serves breakfast and lunch. We both found something that would work for dinner and returned to our cabin to enjoy creek-side adult beverages.
By midmorning, we had cleared out of the cabin, loaded the bikes, and were on the way back to Levels Depot to gas up. One thing to be aware of when traveling in the county is the scarcity of premium gas. As a Harley rider, I always carry octane booster and add it as needed to keep the Limited humming along smoothly.
Over the next couple hours, we rode up and down Seneca Trail, dividing our time between visits to two state parks: Beartown and Droop Mountain Battlefield. We also made a couple runs on SR-39/55. We enjoyed the 55-mph speed limit in many spots on both SR-39/55 and Seneca Trail along with some nice sweepers, twisties, and a few switchbacks, especially on either side of the Droop Mountain summit. From either direction, you get to work the bike as opposed to just coasting along with your boots on the highway pegs.
After hiking around the state parks, we were ready for lunch. We headed back through Hillsboro on Seneca Trail to Seebert Road, the access road to Watoga State Park. We ate at Jack Horner’s Corner, which offers a traditional lunch menu of burgers, hot dogs, sandwiches, and pizza, and locals say it’s the best place for soft-serve ice cream. We enjoyed the outdoor seating overlooking the Greenbrier River and its well-used trail, but our hearty lunches left us no room for ice cream.
The final activity of the afternoon took us back to Hillsboro to visit the Pearl S. Buck Birthplace. Buck, famous for being the first American woman to be awarded both Pulitzer and Nobel prizes for literature, spent much of her youth living in China with her missionary parents. Yet she routinely returned to the place of her birth in Hillsboro. We enjoyed exploring the home, now a museum, with the docent, Phyllis.
After an extended time at the museum, we were back on the bikes for one last ride down Seneca Trail to Marlinton. We got one more taste of the elevation changes, tight curves, a couple switchbacks, and clear roads all the way to the Old Clark Inn, our lodging for the night. This was my first lodging experience in the county that didn’t involve a gravel access road. We enjoyed paved street parking directly in front of the inn.
The Old Clark was recently renovated and caters to folks who prefer two wheels over four – whether motorcycles, mountain bikes, or e-bikes. It offers nine guest rooms, all of which are cozy and well appointed. Common areas have two refrigerators stocked with complimentary beer and soft drinks, although donations are accepted. Donation jars were nowhere to be seen with the morning’s complimentary continental breakfast.
Our high-end dinner, celebrating the end of two days of riding and exploring, was at the Locust Hill Inn, Cabin, and Restaurant, less than a mile from the Old Clark. Although easily within walking distance, we chose to motor over for a final opportunity to ride together. A little care was needed with parking because “hill” earns its inclusion in the establishment’s name. The meal came with good service and a steep price, and the restaurant has an extensive beer and wine menu.
Our tour around the southern part of Pocahontas County prioritized quality over quantity in terms of total mileage, but the roads and scenery were a true pleasure to experience, even those we rode multiple times like Seneca Trail and SR-39/55. Motorcyclists seeking well-maintained and inspiring roads, coupled with state parks, recreational activities, good restaurants, and comfortable lodging, should put Pocahontas County, West Virginia, on their must-visit list.
Southern Pocahontas County, West Virginia Motorcycle Ride Resources
- West Virginia Tourism
- West Virginia State Parks
- Pocahontas County
- Cranberry Glades Botanical Area
- Barnett Cabin Rentals (Hillsboro)
- Pearl S. Buck Birthplace (Hillsboro)
- Greenbrier Grille & Lodge (Marlinton)
- Old Clark Inn (Marlinton)
- Locust Hill Inn, Cabin, and Restaurant (Marlinton)
